Guadalupe Valley is a wine-lover’s paradise

Wine has always been part of my life — and I fell in love with Mexico on my first visit at age 16 with my parents.

That’s why, after moving to San Diego with my husband, Arv, I was so excited to discover the up-and-coming wine region in Baja California’s Guadalupe Valley, just a half hour’s drive inland from Ensenada. Best of all, both the city and the rich agricultural valley are within 100 miles of San Diego, making them ideal for a short or long getaway.

When Arv and I first explored the Guadalupe Valley in 2001, there were only 11 wineries, one fine dining restaurant — Laja — a handful of modest eateries and just one recommended place to stay, the charming six-room Adobe Guadalupe Vineyard & Inn. With so few nearby restaurants, the inn then offered guests a special wine dinner on weekends.

The terrace and pool of the Las Rosas Hotel & Spa near Ensenada overlook the Pacific Ocean.

With minimal lodging options nearby, most valley visitors stayed in Ensenada. On a friend’s recommendation, we first stayed at Las Rosas Hotel & Spa, dramatically set on the rocky oceanfront just outside downtown in El Sauzal. Recently updated, it’s remained a favorite. We’ve returned several times, most recently for last year’s Thanksgiving weekend.

We were blessed on an early visit to meet the late Don Miller, co-owner with his wife, Tru, of Adobe Guadalupe. He took us under his wing and led us, via tire-killing rough back roads and a dried-up riverbed, to meet two of the local industry visionaries, Hugo D’Acosta and the late Antonio Badan.

Miller, a former Laguna Beach banker who retired to the valley with his wife in 1996 to build their winery and inn, had hired D’Acosta as their winemaker. As Arv and I discussed our wine tasting plans, Miller described D’Acosta as “a young Robert Mondavi” and likened the Guadalupe Valley and its winemaking potential to Napa Valley, which he’d visited regularly in its early years.

“Think Napa 50 years ago,” he said, in a vividly recalled conversation.

French-trained D’Acosta, former winemaker at Bodegas Santo Tomás, by then had founded his own much-respected winery, Casa de Piedra, and, more significantly, the wine-making school La Escuelita in El Porvenir in an old olive oil factory. The school has since produced numerous hobbyist and professional winemakers.

Badan, an oceanographer who taught at Ensenada’s Autonomous University of Baja California and died tragically young, cultivated the vines his Swiss-French immigrant parents planted at their farm, El Mogor, including the Chasselas cuttings his father brought from Europe. His small, innovative vineyard and winery, Mogor-Badan, is now run by his sister, Natalie, an organic farmer. It still produces the ethereal white wine her brother first crafted, the only Chasselas in Baja.

In conversations, Badan worried about the valley’s lack of water holding back growth of its wine industry and spoke of fighting the local government’s efforts to over-commercialize the valley.

Fast forward 20-plus years: So much has changed and much of Miller’s forecast — and Badan’s fears — have proved prophetic.

A cook works in the outdoor kitchen at Deckman’s at El Mogor.

After too long an absence, we’ve returned three times since June of 2022. Laja, Adobe Guadalupe and Hugo D’Acosta remain prominent and respected. Badan’s family farm is home still to Antonio’s winery and Natalie’s organic farm, but also the exceptional outdoor restaurant Deckman’s at El Mogor. And, amid climate change and population growth, lack of water is a more urgent concern as development booms.

The valley has lost some of its small-town interconnected intimacy and charm yet retains the welcoming warmth and friendliness of local residents and hospitality staff. It remains one of our favorite places to celebrate birthdays and holidays.

Ensenada used to be the region’s bright shining gastronomic star, but that focus increasingly has shifted to the Guadalupe Valley, now renowned for its culinary creativity and its mostly outdoor dining.

While there are still fine restaurants in Ensenada — we love Manzanilla, Ophelia and Punta Morro with its dramatic setting on stilts over the rocky coast and have yet to try the Anthony Bourdain-lauded seafood cart La Guerrerense and its sister restaurant, Sabina’s — the excitement over the wine country’s innovative cuisine now centers on the beautifully designed wineries, resorts and restaurants attracting first-class culinary talent. Notably, many of these architecturally distinctive buildings were designed by D’Acosta’s prominent architect brother, Alejandro.

Now, valley travelers can select from over 150 wineries and about as many restaurants, while choosing from among over 100 hotels ranging from modestly priced lodgings to full-luxury resorts.

The highways are much better, too. The scenic coastal toll road, Mexico 1D, linking the U.S. border with Ensenada through Tijuana and Rosarito Beach, and Mexico 3, which runs from El Sauzal, just north of Ensenada to Tecate through the Guadalupe Valley, are both now well-maintained, with mostly two lanes in both directions. This contrasts with our early visits, when Mexico 3 was only two potholed lanes and usually featured at least one unnerving military police checkpoint.

With so many new valley restaurants, before traveling there I always check for recommendations from my serious foodie friend Scott Koenig’s blog, A Gringo in Mexico. He’s been covering travel, culture and especially dining in Baja for years and authored the book “Seven Days in the Valle: Baja California’s Wine Country Cuisine.” Every restaurant he’s recommended has been a gem. Make reservations through restaurant websites or the OpenTable app.

Guests have a view of the kitchen as they dine under the sprawling branches of a 200-year-old oak tree at Animalón.

That’s how we first discovered our favorite, Animalón, Chef Javier Plascencia’s extraordinary seasonal outdoor restaurant, overseen by Executive Chef Oscar Torres. There, guests dine on five- or eight-course menus under the branches of a 200-year-old oak tree. It’s co-located with his steakhouse Finca Altozano at Casa Magoni Winery, just down the dirt road from Laja off Mexico 3 at km. 83.

A seasonal salad with organic produce at Deckman’s at El Mogor.

Koenig sent us to another favorite, the renowned Deckman’s at El Mogor, helmed by Michelin-award winning Chef Drew Deckman. El Mogor also hosts Omakase by Deckman’s, a seasonal 12-seat Japanese restaurant featuring seafood prepared by Toshi Tsutada, longtime former chef at San Diego’s Sushi Ota. Both are off Mexico 3 at km 85.5.

A view over the lagoon and vineyards from the terrace at Salvaje Restaurant and Xolo Winery.

Koenig’s enthusiasm also led us to Salvaje, the beautifully designed restaurant at Yolo Winery on the paved road Emiliano Zapata 703, outside Francisco Zarco, where we so enjoyed both the regional Mexican cuisine and wines that we returned on our next visit.

Tagines of meatballs and fish are served at the Moroccan restaurant Kous Kous.

Most recently, we picked from his list of Guadalupe Valley restaurants the excellent Kous Kous. During the pandemic, chef/owner Moumen Nouri relocated his Moroccan restaurant from downtown San Diego to the Anatolia Winery in the valley, just off Mexico 3 near the Domecq Winery.

We always time our departure from San Diego to clear Tijuana in time for lunch. Tired of Puerto Nuevo’s overwhelming hawkers and overcooked, dried-up lobster meals, we wanted something better.

Before our last trip, I asked my fellow food writer and part-time Baja resident, Michael Gardiner, author of the recently published cookbook “Cali-Baja Cuisine: Tijuana Tacos, Ensenada Aguachiles, San Diego Cali Burritos + More,” for a recommendation. He suggested Marea Alta, on the free road in Las Gaviotas, south of Rosarito, which serves excellent seafood, burgers, margaritas and local wines in a modern streamlined setting. We enjoyed it so much we returned there on our way home.

Before going wine tasting, pick up a winery map and check online at larutavcc.com to see if the winery requires a reservation, as many do. After research, I picked several highly rated wineries based also on their location near paved roads. Driving an elderly, collectible car, we wanted to minimize wear and tear on both car and tires.

The colorfully landscaped Lechuza Winery features Chardonnays and big reds, reflecting the hot climate.

We visited several new-to-us wineries we loved: Lechuza, located on Mexico 3 near Deckman’s at km 82.5, makes Chardonnays and big reds reflecting the valley’s hot climate. Founded by Americans Ray and Patty Magnussen, their winemaker daughter Kristin and her husband now operate the winery. The varied varietals of Vinos Xecué, about half a mile off Mexico 3 at km. 89, also impressed us. They offer several different tastings at their expansive tasting room with dramatic views over the rolling vineyards.

Clos de Tres Cantos, off Mexico 3 at km 89.5, stood out for us not only for the quality of their wines, including a sparkling wine and lush reds, but also their medieval monastery-inspired architecture. El Cielo, located off the paved Carretera El Tigre-El Porvenir at km. 7.5, is a sprawling facility with a resort, restaurant, gift shop and multiple tasting opportunities, producing a wide range of fine wines.

Other reliable tasting choices making excellent wines are the long-established Chateau Camou and Monte Xanic, two of the earliest valley wineries.

When scheduling your trip to the Guadalupe Valley, be aware of the temperatures. On our first summer visit, staying in the valley, we’d forgotten how oppressive the heat could be and found it too hot to be outside or go wine tasting. Temperatures, fortunately, cool down enough by late afternoon for pleasant al fresco dining.

To cool off, we decamped to Ensenada, where we visited the kid-oriented Caracol Science Museum. Other interesting museums we enjoyed previously include the Museum of Ensenada History (and natural history) located in the historic tiled Riviera Casino and Gardens on the Boulevard Costero, the nearby Ensenada Art & Cultural Center (CEART) and the small but fascinating Regional History Museum, tucked into the old downtown jail on Gastélum Street. Or go shopping on Avenida López-Mateos, one block off Boulevard Costero. Better yet, visit the air-conditioned Museum of the Vine & Wine in the valley on Mexico 3, km. 81.

People often ask if it’s safe to travel in Baja. Yes, but use common sense as you would traveling anywhere. Don’t flash wads of cash or jewelry, stay away from drugs and drug dealers and don’t get drunk.

Be cautious driving. More roads now are paved, but most side streets, including roads to major wineries, hotels and restaurants, are still dirt and often quite rough and muddy during the rainy season. If you have a higher-clearance SUV or sturdier car, drive that.

Be sure to allow plenty of time to return across the border to the U.S.

With advance planning, you too can savor traveling in the Guadalupe Valley and Ensenada.

Before you go

When planning your trip to Ensenada and the Guadalupe Valley, check the Ensenada Travel website (ensenada.travel/en) for full travel resources, including links to hotels, restaurants, museums and other attractions. The Ensenada office is located at Bouelvard Costero 540, Zona Centro downtown.

For wineries, visit La Ruta’s website at larutavcc.com (not all wineries are listed).

Make sure everyone in your party has a valid passport, required for entry into Mexico and especially for return to the U.S.

Non-Mexican nationals also need a tourist card (FMM), available at the border at the immigration office (free for up to seven days), even for short-term travel into the country.

Discover Baja Travel Club offers some of the best resources for travel in Baja. Their website (discoverbaja.com; 800-727-BAJA) provides members with up-to-date information regarding road conditions and best routing to return to the U.S. border. The club issues advance tourist cards and offers the best deals on Mexican automobile insurance. If you travel to Mexico more than once a year, an annual policy may be least expensive.

If you’re driving, you must purchase Mexican insurance, since Mexico does not recognize American auto insurance and requires that all drivers be financially liable for any damage or bodily injury they might cause. Without insurance, if you have an accident, police can impound your car or jail you. You can also buy Mexican insurance at many border agencies.

For regular border crossers, investing in a SENTRI pass through the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (see www.cbp.gov) saves hours in border wait times.

Most U.S. cell companies provide roaming service in Mexico, but you may add temporary Mexico coverage to your cell plan to avoid extra charges. Call your carrier before traveling.

Most people in the tourist and hospitality industry speak at least some English. People do appreciate visitors speaking or attempting to speak Spanish.

Be sure to bring small bills to pay tolls on the toll road (about $7 to $8 each way, depending on the exchange rate). U.S. dollars are widely accepted throughout the region.

Sours Larson is a San Diego freelance writer.